The Growlery

"Sit down, my dear," said Mr. Jarndyce. "This, you must know, is the Growlery.
When I am out of humour, I come and growl here."

Charles Dickens, Bleak House, Chapter VIII

Saturday, June 16, 2007

Settling In




It's my fourth day in Addis and I think I may have finally beaten the rotten jetlag and adjusted to the 8,000 foot elevation. Getting used to the country itself will take considerably longer. Mindy says there are some things you just never get used to.

Most of what I've seen outside the Beetham gebi (compound) has been through the car windows as we've driven places. But even that little is difficult for me to describe. For one thing, how does one describe a place so stereotyped? Yes, there are rough roads and beggars and dirt and slums. But this brief sketch doesn't begin to capture the place's complexity, or for me, its total foreignness.



The rough roads are traversed by numerous taxi cars and vans who don't seem to follow any rules of the road that I've ever heard of. It's defensive driving to a level undreamed of in the states. The fact is, although in driver's ed you may have learned to expect the worst from other drivers, you still expect some form of logic and self-preservation. Other drivers may be aggressive, stupid or careless, but usually their actions make sense from some psychological profile. Not so here: people will drive unsafely even in ways that don't benefit them and could easily result in their death.



This situation is further complicated by the hordes of people who line the street, walking, buying, selling, and living on the curbs. Many will step right into traffic, even in front of an oncoming, fast-moving car. Mindy says this is due both to the Marxist training from an earlier regime (you are just as good as the rich people, so they should be able to wait for you) but also the vast majority have never driven a car, so they don't realize that cars can't stop instantly. Seasoned missionaries say "If you haven't hit somebody yet, you will." Did I mention the herds of donkeys, goats and cattle that vie with the cars for space on the street?



If you can get over the crazy traffic, it's fascinating to see what people have in the shops that line the streets: fruit, used clothes, dog collars and chains, gum, coal, cell phone cards, pottery, baskets, tomatoes. Yet this environment, a quaint curiosity to the tourist, can be overwhelming to the missionary here long-term, and even though I will only be here a month, I'm experiencing my share of "cultural stress." It's an inevitable result the fact that things are different in the host country, from something as huge as the language or cultural norms, to as trivial as the unfamiliar type of light switches, or the brands of food available at the market. Or the fact that I can't identify the breed of noisy, vulture-like birds that caw outside my window each morning or distinguish the Muslim and Orthodox calls to prayers.

I am not sure yet what I will ultimately learn from this visit, but so far, I am impressed by the sacrifice it is to go overseas, period. Regardless of what other challenges await on the individual mission field, the very act of leaving home, the familiar and safe, is a difficult one, which requires bravery and faith.

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4 Comments:

Blogger John Rodkey said...

Thanks for posting your insights into the difficulty of adjusting to another culture and another place.

I find this to be true as well as I'm here in Israel on Kibbutz Gal'on. Ideas about what is beautiful, practices for cleaning rooms, food menus - even the location and type of lightswitch is in your room (on the outside of bathrooms, small toggleswitches) each contribute their a small measure of discomfort. As long as those differences are small and/or low frequency, you can absorb/assimilate/adjust to the change. It's when there are many changes, or a few large changes that you start going into cultural overload. It sounds like you're definitely experiencing many small and quite a few large differences: driving, language, household servants, city vs. small town, etc.

I think that time alone to process the differences you are now immersed in is important for maintaining your equilibrium. I truly hope you are able to get some time to spend in reflection.

Daddy Dear

11:45 PM  
Blogger Heather said...

Sounds like quite the experience for you! We are glad to be a vicarious part of it.
It's not so hard to adapt to Scotland. :-)

8:47 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Dear Elissa, Not since we read Henri Nowen's Latin American Journal while preparing for Honduras have we read journal entries so authentic and revealing. Thank you for your blunt honesty in expressing your observations and feelings associated with them. Nowen's thoughts came back to us again and again as we had our first real immersion in another (very different) culture. We would encourage you to consider publishing your journal as it could likewise help future pilgrims.

Blessings, Judy and Jim Halvorsen

P.S. On another note we noticed that 'suffering' is one of your interests mentioned on your blog. Recently we came across some thoughts on the subject that were very helpful to us. We would love to hear your thoughts (whenever time permits) on my (Jim's) brief summary below.
------
07-03-25 Don't bypass Sufferville (sorrowville, painville, troubleville, difficultyville, etc.)

In reading Henri Nouwen's "The Dance of Life" I have been informed and moved by his depiction of the dichotomy between Illusion and Prayer, the 3rd of three dichotomies mentioned. The other two are loneliness/solitude, and hostility/hospitality.

We live under the illusion of either being or getting in control of our circumstances. This is especially true for planners and dreamers like me. If not confronted, this illusion keeps us from authentic communication with God in which we must recognize who HE is and who we are.

First I must face this illusion by driving right through it. I must neither orchestrate a bypass around suffering nor close my eyes as I travel through it. Facing difficulty directly provides the opportunity to commune with God about my limits and His love and power. It makes authentic communication with Him possible.

For me this is the first time that I have ever read or heard anything about the necessity of facing pain and suffering which makes sense. It has been hard to separate this perspective from masochistic behavior in which suffering is sought out. (gratification gained from pain, deprivation, degradation, etc., inflicted or imposed on oneself, either as a result of one's own actions or the actions of others, esp. the tendency to seek this form of gratification)

But there is a critical difference between seeking it out on the one hand and trying to avoid it on the other. We are told that to experience Christ's glory we must be with Him in His suffering. And we also need to walk with others in their pain. One value of walking through pain and suffering is that it helps destroy our illusion of control. And another truth is that no matter how we try to avoid pain, sorrow, and suffering we will not. No one gets a free bypass.

As stated earlier, this is the first idea about this that makes real sense to me. I have been a take hold, plan well, work hard, think ahead kind of person. And the better I got at these things, the more I was able to avoid many difficult situations. I considered that as success but now see it in another light. If I would have faced the reality of difficult situations directly, I would have been able to recognize God's deep love in the middle of suffering rather than counting my successful avoidance as another example of my giftedness. When the pain finally showed up that I could not bypass, I would have had a better foundation for dealing with it and my communication with God would have been more authentic and nourishing.

12:20 PM  
Blogger Unknown said...

E- Thanks for the privilage of hearing your processing. It is helping me understand your journey as well as wrap my head around the changes in store for Christi as she leaves for Rwanda in less that two weeks! By the by, she is flying Ethiopian airlines. Did you use them?

11:45 AM  

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